Saturday, January 21, 2012

Devil's Punchbowl and Castle Hill, more Arthur's Pass



Since that windy day we've been enjoying some awesome east coast weather here on the south island. Hot sunny days and cool evenings that have me wishing we could have a campfire; there's a total ban on them due to the risk of forest fires.

With the storm gone we headed back into Arthur's Pass for all the things we'd planned but couldn't do. First stop was Castle Hill and was that ever a treat. Even just hiking around in the rocks made it clear what a great place this would be for anyone into climbing. And there are lots of anchors in place for those who want to get serious (as well as strict rules about not adding any more). For us it was the vistas and textures and colours that made it so amazing (although watching the boulderers marching up the hill with their giant "backpacks" of crash pads was kind of surreal too).
Castle Hill  
Castle Hill

Castle Hill

Next up was Cave Stream; a spot that would follow us into where we spent the night. It's a 1/2km long cave that has an active stream running through it. We were ready to walk through it but when we learned that we should be ready for waist-deep water (which we weren't) we opted to look in at the end and just enjoy the area. Thank you NZ DOC information markings - which are everywhere, informing and cautioning travellers about all the wonders that are new to them, from the appropriate distance to keep from a seal to the gear necessary for Cave Stream.  For someone serious about spelunking I'm sure it would awesome. We continued up the road toward the pass and had lunch at the beginning of the national park. All along the way we'd been admiring the fresh snow on the mountain tops… as predicted it had snowed quite a bit the day before. It was most impressive as we got closer to the high peaks on either side of the pass as they had more than just a light dusting.

With so much to do in one day, a short hike was the best choice and the ideal candidate for this was the Devil's Punchbowl. There's one back home on the Niagara peninsula so we wanted to compare punchbowls. I like the one at home better, this one was "just" a spectacular waterfall without and clear bowl action! Still: it was a great hike to a beautiful spot with lots of great photos along the way. One of my favourites is something Andrea noticed and suggested… it made for a very pleasing image. And to wrap it all up we stripped off our boots at the bottom and put our feet into the frigid waters flowing down from the falls. It gave my toes an ice cream headache but was a real treat after all the walking. Then it was time to head to the Craigieburn campground to set up camp for the next day's ride
Arthur's Pass


Devil's Punchbowl, full view
Devil's Punchbowl, detail view

This campground is on the Broken River Ski access road and very close to the access road to Craigieburn ski area which is where we would be riding today. And a stream runs through the campground, and we found a lovely site to camp at. Of course this was the Cave Stream, as we noticed on the sign for the culvert at the road (everything has a name and a sign here in NZ… every stream, culvert and even livestock underpasses). The campsite was great, up to the standard to which all the DOC sites we've been at are maintained. The only challenge came from the nasty little black flies that are called sand flies here. They chased us into the camper early.


Thursday, January 19, 2012

Arthur's Pass and East

I'm jumping ahead a little in the trip as my notes from the early part of the second week are still just rough. So I'll post some about our escape from the cold wet west coast and the delights of hiking and biking in the Cantebury high ground as well as a few other spots. Still lots more to come, stay tuned.

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Our plan was to get to Arthur's Pass and then do some hiking the next day. The weather gods had other ideas and we had the good sense to listen to them. Saturday was bad: cold, wet, windy. The forecast for Sunday was much worse with snow and hail added to the mix so we kept driving toward the elusive sunshine ahead of us. Every time we stopped to admire a view the rain would catch up so we didn't stop as often as I would have liked. At the end of the day's drive we arrived in Springfield for a $7 campsite with a hot shower available. We were treated to a beautiful rainbow, the soft bleating of sheep, and bird song until the morning. That's when the weather caught up to us with strong winds and a chilling bite. We didn't take it too seriously and kept to our plan to ride the Wharfedale Track. It was an adventure getting there with gale force winds blowing us around on the roads and then some streams to cross (or not as we decided… better to ride a bike through a river than to get a rental camper stuck in one). That's when Murphy stepped in.



The wind picked up even more, if that was possible. The bright sunny day turned into a sunny rainy day. And the decision not to drive the fords meant an hour long ride uphill into a gale force wind with cold cold rain beating into our faces. On the ride up a few cars passed us, often with encouraging words. By the time we neared the top they were all headed back down having decided they didn't want to ride the track in these conditions. We were already wet and cold so we soldiered on. I'm glad we did as the track was challenging and exciting. And beautiful. Still, we were cold and wet by the time we got there so it wasn't long before we headed back. What had taken us an hour to climb was 15 minutes to descend. And that included the 4 gates to open/close and the river crossing that we didn't want to risk in the camper (it was about a foot deeper on the way back because of the rain so I'd say it was a good call).

Breakfast, a tricky drive, an epic ride, sitting in the camper shivering happy to be getting warm. And it wasn't yet noon! Inspired by the load of wet cycling clothes we decided to look for a town to do laundry and find a good lunch. Struck out on laundry, we did find a place to stock up on groceries and get some hot coffee and lunch (long blacks and toasties). Then a white-knuckled drive back to Springfield… driving into a gale-force headwind is no fun in a hightop camper. Getting to our campsite and unpacking all the wet stuff was a good feeling though. Cleaning clothes and bikes, setting up camp chairs in the sun, unwinding. YES. Follow that up with dinner, a shower and some relaxing and it's now time to call it a night.

Friday, January 13, 2012

First Week in NZ: Full Report

I've been writing this offline in the evenings and now that I have some internet time (we're parked outside the library in Hokitika) I'll get a bunch of stuff online. I've just put up some photos from the museum in Auckland, here's a little more about this first week.

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Getting there:
It's a long journey, made longer by the layover in LA. Air Canada was ok, we weren't able to book seats ahead because we booked thru NZA. The best we could get was across the aisle from each other. not bad, not great. Paying Air Canada for food when it's a 5 hour flight and there are no options? That sucks.

By comparison, NZ Air was great. Once past the lounge the fun starts with their safety video and goes on to the food, beverages (all included) and then you can add in the sky couch. It's too small to really get comfy and cuddle so we'll see how we do on the trip back (not going to think that far ahead though! writing this on sat 1/7). We did both manage to get some sleep and some cuddles in on the way...

The flight arrived in Auckland around 8am and we took our time organizing at the airport since it was so early. It felt like we were close to on the right bio clock time and so we sorted out stuff and found our way to to the hotel (after getting some "flat whites"; a standard coffee here). Our room wasn't ready so we put the bikes together and went for a ride. it was a mixed bag weather-wise, with some rain, some cloud, some sun. After being out in that for about 3 hours we we well toasted… not burned, just more exposed that we had expected to be even though we knew to be careful about sun exposure.

Along the way we dropped in @ Lucky Rental to say hi to Brendan and Jenna. We got to see the place, see how they're doing, and make some dinner plans for that night (Tues 1/3). Once we got back to the hotel and checked in we crashed hard around 4pm and had to work to wake up. Once we were it was a great evening and dinner with J & B topped off with them delivering a "plunger" (as a bodum coffee press is known here) with all the ingredients to make good coffee for our trip. Sweet As!

After a good deep sleep the next day was spent in Auckland with a bus trip in, a museum visit, and coffee shop / dinner hunting expedition. We eventually gave up and headed back to the hotel to dine and plan. It was a nice day, lots of exploring without being too much… perfect lead-up to the start of our "Camping NZ" experience.

Thurs (1/5) was our day to pick up the camper so we got there early (rode our bikes to make it simple) and enjoyed coffee with Tim Tams for the first time (for what has now become a part of our daily routine!). "Bite the 4 corners off, suck your coffee through it, then eat it before it melts". Yum!

Brendan did some final tuning on the camper to make it as good as possible, including putting a new stereo and speakers in… nice touch. Jenna made sure there were a few extras in there too… olive oil, wine glasses, and more which were very much appreciated. Writing this now that we're 3 days into our trip those little details are very helpful.
At Lucky Rentals with Brendan

Bike Parking in Auckland

On the road at last, and then the first real test: driving on the left side of the road! This is definitely a test of contesting reflexes and ingrained behaviour. We drove to Raglan with a few stops in Hamilton to get supplies, then a coastal road down to Kawhai where the hot sands are @ Ocean Beach. We didn't make it to the beach, we did get to enjoy some great free camping as our first night. Bill @ Oparau Roadhouse had a great and generous perspective… definitely want to spread the word about his spot. It was a quiet night with lots of stars and a bright moon and no other company… a great start! Bill recommended a bunch of local things to do and we opted to do a few of the free ones on that list. Water falls, caves, natural bridges… and what I think was an attempted vandalism @ one spot. I'm glad they failed… our bikes, computer and much of my camera gear was in the camper at the time. We've since tried to find better ways to keep things secure.
Traveling the backroads is slow and worth it!

Another view of Bridal Veil Falls
Petrified oyster shells

We also stopped in to see kiwis at a bird "zoo". I have no photos of them (not allowed), it was still very cool to experience. I hope we get to hear or see them in the wild somewhere. Then it was on to Rotorua. We struggled picking a camping spot thinking we wanted to stay in the same place for two nights. The one we tried was way too busy and the next one we got to was full. Ultimately we found a beach spot and set up there; not too many folks around and it looked promising to be a quiet night spent with  the black swans. A highlight was when an air cooled Vanagon pulled in… see photos. It originally imported from Scotland by the 2nd owner who had it for over 20 years. the couple who now have it (a german / kiwi combo) and his brother visiting from Germany were happy to chat about the bus. This is the first time we've seen that interior config: it sleeps 5… 3 up to and 2 on the z-bed. nice! Nothing like a Westfalia interior… which reminds me: the owner mentioned that VW & Westfalia didn't make right hand driver camper production models, I'll have to look into that. After 10 days here I've seen a number of Bay and Splitties but that remains the only Vanagon.
Gecko

Flightless duck
Stay tuned for more... I have two entries almost ready to put online.

Maori Art

I mentioned that Andrea and I went to the museum in Auckland... here are a few photos I took there. In particular, I'm uploading one at a high enough resolution that you can use it as a background if you like. It's what's on my screen now.

There are lots of interesting images used by the Maori in both woven and carved materials. These are some fine whakairo rakau (wood carvings), enjoy.
Whakairo rakau of a warrior, high res for a desktop backgound

Wharepuni

Whare whakairo

Detail from a war canoe

Detail from a war canoe


Thursday, January 12, 2012

New Zealand, week 1

I haven't had much time to write and even less internet access so I've been slow in getting any updates here. Friends on Facebook have gotten a few photos so I thought I should add some here as well. Stay tuned for more to come!

 Our first week consisted of two days in Auckland, a little riding and a little visiting with Brendan and Jenna, picking up the camper on the 5th of January and then hitting the road. We made our way down the west side of the North Island for a bit; enjoying the views and learning to drive on the left. Our first stop was at Bill's Roadhouse in Oparau. Free and friendly, a perfect combination to start. While in the area we checked out the local falls, caves and other rock formations. Then we headed to the Rotorua area for some mountain biking... stay tuned, I'll get to that in the next entry!

Oparau Roadhouse... a perfect introduction to free camping in NZ
Sunrise @ Oparau

Bridal Veil Falls
Natural rock bridge
looking up at stalactites
A 1982 air-cooled Vanagon, sleeps 3 up top and 2 down below
The black fern
Interior view of the Vanagon, nicely laid out